Elounda - Introduction

Elounda, on the island of Crete in Greece, boasts the country's highest concentration of exclusive hotels and is regarded as one of the top luxury destinations on the Mediterranean. What sets it apart from the glamorous, see-and-be-seen resorts on Mykonos and Santorini, is the discretion and privacy reserved for its guests. Here, politicians, royalty and celebrities in search of a low-profile retreat can find modern, stylish, five-star hotels set in landscaped grounds planted with eucalyptus, palms and pines. Originally five tiny villages, of which only one, Schisma, is by the sea, Elounda stretches along the coast and up into the surrounding hills. Elounda lagoon, which is part of Mirabello Bay, boasts serene waters protected by an 8km- (5 mile-) peninsular. The peninsular is separated from the mainland by a channel dug by the French in the late 19th century, but joined to it by a narrow causeway. Close by, the tiny fortress island of Spinalonga rises from the sea. Finally, a bit of trivia - the BBC television series ‘Who Pays the Ferryman' was filmed here in 1977.

Who Goes There
From Easter to late-October, Elounda receives a steady stream of visitors from all over the world, including a fair smattering of VIPs in search of anonymity, luxury and relaxation. In recent years, it has become particularly popular with rich Russians. In addition to tourists, many foreigners, notably Brits, have bought houses here, and some reside in the area the year through.

Where in the World
Elounda lies on the north coast of the Greek island of Crete, on the Cretan Sea, 8km (5 miles) north of the resort town of Agios Nikolaos. In turn, Agios Nikolaos lies 65km (41 miles) east of Heraklion, home to the nearest large ferry port, and 61km (38 miles) east of Heraklion airport.

Elounda's resort hotels string along the coast between Schisma and Plaka; some are built into the steep hillsides above the sea, affording stunning views over the calm blue waters of the lagoon and the fortress island of Spinalonga.

When to go
Through peak season (Jul-Aug), Elounda buzzes with holiday-makers - hotel prices rise accordingly and the average daytime temperature is 28°C (82°F). Try to visit in mid season (May-Jun and Sep-Oct), when the weather is milder but the sea still warm enough to swim. Through low season (Nov-Apr), most tourist facilities shut down completely.

Beach
While some of the big luxury hotels have their own private beaches, there are plenty of decent public beaches in Elounda. In Schisma, there is a sandy beach backed by row of small palm trees, with sunbeds and umbrellas for hire and watersports facilities. Plaka has a good pebble beach backed by tamarisk trees, with sunbeds and umbrellas plus great a view of Spinalonga Island. Between Schisma and Plaka, the sand and shingle Driros Beach, overlooked by Hotel Drisos, is one of the best in the area and has sunbeds and umbrellas plus a windsurf club. In addition, taxi boats from Schisma harbour take visitors to Kolokitha Bay beach on the peninsular.

Beyond the Beach
Just 4.5km (3 miles) north along coast from Schisma, the pretty fishing village of Plaka with its authentic seafood eateries is worth a visit. From both Schisma and Plaka, daily excursions boats take visitors to the haunting island of Spinalonga, which was fortified by the Venetians in the 17th century to protect the Cretan coast against the Turks, then used as leper colony from 1913 to 1957.

Family Fun
Sophisticated Elounda is primarily aimed at the adult market, though the area's beaches and calm waters are perfect for kids. In addition, the big resort hotels offer extensive sports facilities such as pools, gyms and tennis courts, which should appeal to teenagers.

Retail Therapy
Elounda has limited shopping - a few general stores and souvenir shops in the villages of Schisma and Plaka. For gifts make a trip to Agios Nikolaos, where typical mementoes include authentic Cretan wine, raki, olive oil and honey, plus locally-produced natural products such as olive-oil based soaps, face creams and shampoos.

A Night on the Town
The seaside villages of Schisma and Plaka offer low-key bars and cafes overlooking the water. In contrast, the big luxury hotels enjoy chic late-night drinking venues such as the Elounda Gulf Villas' romantic, candle-lit Argonauts Lounge Bar with an infinity pool, a cascading waterfall and atmospheric chill-out music, and the Porto Elounda Hotel's glamorous Kirki Bar offering piano music and a stunning sea view.

Eating Out
The luxury hotels have their own sophisticated dining options, such as Elounda Peninsular All Suite Hotel's Calypso restaurant run by a French Michelin Star chef and the Blue Palace Resort's Asia Blue restaurant offering Southeast Asian fusion cuisine. For dinner on the town, try Vritomartes, built on a tiny artificial island in Schisma harbour; the owner catches much of the seafood on offer - look out for astakos (lobster), barbouni (red mullet) and xifias (swordfish).

Getting Around
Elounda's hotels are dispersed along the coast between the villages of Schisma and Plaka, which are joined by a coastal road lined with eucalyptus and pine trees. Regular local buses run east along the coast from Schisma to Agios Nikolaos, from where long-distance regional buses follow the National Road west to Heraklion, Rethymnon and Hania. Taxis are cheap by European standards. Through high season, regular taxi boats depart from the harbours in Schisma and Plaka, transporting visitors to Spinalonga Island and to the area's more isolated beaches, some of which are only accessible from the water.

Exploring Further Afield
Just 8km (5 miles) south along the coast lies the cheerful, workaday seaside resort of Agios Nikolaos. Moving inland, 8km (5 miles) southwest of Agios Nikolaos, the village of Kritsa is renowned for weaving, embroidery and ceramics, making great souvenirs. En-route, 2km (1 mile) before Kritsa, stands the lovely whitewashed church of Panagia Kira, decorated with 14th-century Byzantine frescoes. Local agencies organise one-day jeep safaris to the Lasithi Plateau, which, at 1,025m (3,360ft), is home to some 20 small rural villages and noted for its old-fashioned windmills. Another popular excursion is Via Beach (also known as Finikodassos, meaning Palm Beach), a gently curving golden sand beach backed by Europe's largest natural palm grove, giving it an exotic Caribbean vibe. It lies on Crete's isolated east coast, 92km (58 miles) east of Agios Nikolaos.

Splashing Out
The Blue Palace Resort (north of Schisma, on the road to Plaka) is home to the Elounda Spa Thalassotherapy (www.bluepalace.gr). Non-residents are welcome to book in for beauty and wellness treatments including massage, aromatherapy, steam baths, sauna and thermal body wraps. There are special programmes for rejuvenation and slimming, and yoga and meditation classes are also available.

Flying In
Heraklion Airport (HER)

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